JODPUR 1st - 4th December
Following Sharma's advice we had arranged a tourist bus leaving early in the morning, though there was quite a wait before it departed and not much choice for breakfast at this hour - just chai and biscuits. Once in Jodpur we asked for the Arts Centre shop and GH and were taken there under protest by the rickshaw driver who said we wouldn't like it. The motor rickshaw driver was of course quite right!, the workshop was dinghy, the only room available was dirty though the on taken in the front may have been OK but it was occupied. So we asked for the Govind where we had the last free room. He had suggested many places on route which looked OK but were nervous about the value given the backhanders available to rickshaw drivers. The Govind has the big strategic advantage of being opposite the railway Booking Office with the station itself just 100 yards away. So we booked a night train to Agra, we were offered a wait listed ticket which does not even give the right to board but chose for an RAC (reservation against cancellation) for the following night, giving an absolute right to board and a better chance of a berth. When we came to board our names and seat numbers were on the list displayed on the platform.
Jodpur is
quite interesting apart from the fort we enjoyed ourselves walking
around the market and adjacent back streets. A lad with excellent
English was soon guiding us to the spice shop for which he would earn
commission. They sold only to tourists with a full range of spices
packed in plastic bags, and did a lot of trade by post to individuals in
different countries. We didn't buy from him even though he offered
large discounts, 50 - 67% on the listed prices but we didn't buy because
we dislike buying from such people - although he was pleasant and very
informative about spices. He was 'MV Spices, Mohanlal Verhomal, Shop
209-B Kirana Merchant, Vegetable Market, Clock Tower, JODPUR 342 002,
RAJ, INDIA which I recorded thinking it might be good for mail order
later.
In the backstreets we came across clock maker M Ahsan, with around ten half size pendulum clocks on display. He was at work, eyeglass in place when we met him, his son was continuing the business but not as a similar craftsman. The most expensive clock was 7000rp made in America one with date as well as time, the cheaper ones were 3000rp. He had contact with Southerby's and showed letters to prove it. Previously he had been watch repairer to a Maharajah with several generations of recommendations. The repairer took us along the street to buy cardamon, green at 60rp/100g and black at 20rp. the green was very nice and the next day purchase some for 50rp from on open stall, disregarding the pimps who wanted to take us elsewhere.
On the second evening we went for dinner to the Agit Bhawan Palace, the LP suggested it for a splurge where Bryn and Mary had stayed. We had a nice enough meal in pleasant surroundings, non veg for a change in this class of hotel, but not that special and many times the price we had been paying. The following night we walked several km to the superior Unmaid Bhawan Palace. On the way there we bought delicious samosas from a hugely popular stall with a queue of local, always a good sign. Once there we went o the museum and took a brief look at the residential quarters and a huge lounge are with sitting in four points separated by walkways. Joan went to get a glimpse of the garden from down one of these walkways , but was stopped as I had been earlier as I ventured too far inside the room. The guides main purpose seemed to be stopping us plebs from straying into the residential quarters, though you could stay for lunch at 350rp minimum per person as Bryn and Mary had done. Still it was nice to admire the china, pottery and other things on display and get some idea of the wealth around. At 8pm we caught the train to Agra but once again the car attendant had to come to our aide in order for us to claim our seats from incumbents.
AGRA Wednesday 4 - Saturday 7 December
We got off the train in the early hours and asked the rickshaw driver to take us to the Raj (200rp), near the Taj Mahal in the so called Taj Ganj area. It was an excellent choice which was just opening and would have to wait until a room was vacated, so we took breakfast instead of wasting time. Because small hotels like ours are within 300m of the Taj Mahal, recently made a World Heritage Site, they may have to be pulled down which would be great shame for budget travelers, though one can sense the delight of upmarket hoteliers. By mid morning we had made our way there and observed one great positive, the forbidding of tradesmen, beggars and touts inside the site itself, only a few official government shops were allowed in the vicinity and even these were just outside the gates.
Leaving we walked back to
the hotel down South Gate and started to look at the little shops,
mostly craft shops making various artifacts using the Taj Mahal theme of
inlaid marble. After a vegetarian lunch, bland and overpriced for
tourists, a rickshaw driver took us shopping, from place to place in
search of commissions. I think he gets more if we actually purchase but
in fact we were merely comparing the offers though conscious that we
should buy some things for Christmas. Buying waited until Sunday
starting at the Asian Arts & Handicrafts which seemed to be the bone
fide workshop it was, no pressure selling no touts we entered after
watching them do the final abrasive finish to a beautiful table top
destined for the USA, their major market. We bought a small but
beautiful table top for 5000rp plus another 1750rp for post, packing and
insurance. He got us to indelibly sign the back of the piece we had
purchased, reassuring some time later when it reached our home. We
developed a rapport with the owner and got recommendation on buying
jewelry, and he sent us to Pawan Export which was closed but on
returning he took us to someone nearby where we bought a bulky silver
bracelet at 550rp for Geoffrey, which he was delighted with. The strap
was lengthened in a small workshop next door where we also purchased a
necklace for Joan and a cheaper silver bracelet. We stayed for a long
chat with the owner in a shop just opposite our hotel, they specialised
in necklaces rather than silver. Later on we found Pawan open.
Nearby we made friends with the old proprietor of a telephone call centre. He had been in charge of the Taj Mahal for many years and clearly knew a great deal about it which he was more than willing to describe. Interesting conversations learning for instance that the seeming decoration of inlaid marble around the doors was in fact 11 chapters of the Koran He explained the meaning of some chapters which I can't recall - such is the advantage of recording such things at the time. We got up at 6am the first morning to see the sun rise on the Taj Mahal and we were by no means the only ones and the atmosphere was worth savouring, actually 7am would have been early enough to get the unique effect of sun glinting off the inlays, though we never succeeded in recording that sensation on film. As with all visits we took shot after shot hoping to capture the wonderful effect of this building. The nearest came when a girl tourist used Joan's camera and lay down at the end of the water to get the fullest reflection in the water. I had thought this was a gimmick but it certainly wasn't.
Up early this day to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise. It was very different as the light at sunrise and sunset has a big glinting effect on the appearance on the marble inlays.
FATEPUR SIKRI
We made two long trips by local bus, the first to Fatepur Sikri a fully built Moghul town which had to be abandoned after just 40 years for problems with salt in the water supply. As a result it is an outstanding example of a city, which is being well preserved as a tourist attraction where tradesmen had been recently banned.
One trader we met had taken a room at the local GH but his trade was obviously going rapidly downhill, though his products were excellent. We purchased a couple of stone bowls again for Geoffrey, and looked at inlaid plates which we were offered at knock down prices (50% of Agra itself) which we refused. He came after us pleading for us to buy at the price I had offered during bargaining, so poor was trade he needed money. Hard hearted me refused, a decision I soon regretted for I became sure he was desperate for help. In the GH we met a girl who worked in Welfare at Port Talbot where I had worked for a shade over 30 years.
DEEG and the GOPAL BHAVAN
The second trip the very next day we made the far more difficult, more protracted, trip to Deeg. Which can be reached by a northerly of southerly route either of which involved two buses. In fact we made the full circuit in 2x5hrs, going via Mathura (Sharma's home town) and returning via Bharatpur. The time we spent there was well worth while, again it was a well kept monument, which judging by the presence of a wedding party enjoying the grounds attracts locals as well as tourists. Years later we both recall the huge ornamental blankets which were oscillated to cool the main room.
On the return trip to Bharatpur, on a
very crowded small bus with passengers sitting on the roof, we had a
blow out - not unexpected as with every bounce in the road we could hear
the chassis ground. Luckily it was a rear tire which blew otherwise at
speed this could have been a serious accident. Everyone, reluctant to
give up their seats, had eventually to get out without which they could
not have replaced the tire. The Driver and Conductor struggled alone to
jack up the vehicle and large stones from the wayside were used to prop
it up, and stone was used to block the road for fear of another
accident. We did initially lose our seats, but Joan got one seat back,
the culprit was very interesting for like Sharma he was a very pleasant
lecturer at a government college and he too had several farms. It was
dark before we got back to Agra.
LAST DAY IN AGRA
After shopping the final day we went back to the Taj Mahal for the third visit, planning to see it in evening sunlight. By chance it was a very special day, the anniversary of the death of Shah Gehan, who built it for his wife, so not only was entrance free but there was a religious band at the main door and on this one day one could go down into the basement to see the actual tombs. There are tombs on the ground floor but these are copies, but the originals are inlaid beautifully and in a totally different style to those daily view.
Next day Sunday 8 December we traveled to Delhi by train, a father with his daughter looking for a safe place for her to sit chose the seat near. She was going to Delhi for the very first day of her studies to become an engineer like her father. She too was interesting company although understandably a little wary of how her first day at university would go.
Later that day we flew back to Heathrow with BA arrving at 3.15am
the next day , courtesy of a 10% discount from Andrew who had recently
started as a short haul co-pilot with BA. He is now (Feb 2014) flying
long haul and shortly hopes to transfer to the latest plane, the Boeing
Dreamliner.
Following Sharma's advice we had arranged a tourist bus leaving early in the morning, though there was quite a wait before it departed and not much choice for breakfast at this hour - just chai and biscuits. Once in Jodpur we asked for the Arts Centre shop and GH and were taken there under protest by the rickshaw driver who said we wouldn't like it. The motor rickshaw driver was of course quite right!, the workshop was dinghy, the only room available was dirty though the on taken in the front may have been OK but it was occupied. So we asked for the Govind where we had the last free room. He had suggested many places on route which looked OK but were nervous about the value given the backhanders available to rickshaw drivers. The Govind has the big strategic advantage of being opposite the railway Booking Office with the station itself just 100 yards away. So we booked a night train to Agra, we were offered a wait listed ticket which does not even give the right to board but chose for an RAC (reservation against cancellation) for the following night, giving an absolute right to board and a better chance of a berth. When we came to board our names and seat numbers were on the list displayed on the platform.
 |
| JODPUR FORT ENTRANCE |
 |
| JODPUR FORT |
 |
| BLUE TOWN HOUSES from JODPUR FORT |
In the backstreets we came across clock maker M Ahsan, with around ten half size pendulum clocks on display. He was at work, eyeglass in place when we met him, his son was continuing the business but not as a similar craftsman. The most expensive clock was 7000rp made in America one with date as well as time, the cheaper ones were 3000rp. He had contact with Southerby's and showed letters to prove it. Previously he had been watch repairer to a Maharajah with several generations of recommendations. The repairer took us along the street to buy cardamon, green at 60rp/100g and black at 20rp. the green was very nice and the next day purchase some for 50rp from on open stall, disregarding the pimps who wanted to take us elsewhere.
On the second evening we went for dinner to the Agit Bhawan Palace, the LP suggested it for a splurge where Bryn and Mary had stayed. We had a nice enough meal in pleasant surroundings, non veg for a change in this class of hotel, but not that special and many times the price we had been paying. The following night we walked several km to the superior Unmaid Bhawan Palace. On the way there we bought delicious samosas from a hugely popular stall with a queue of local, always a good sign. Once there we went o the museum and took a brief look at the residential quarters and a huge lounge are with sitting in four points separated by walkways. Joan went to get a glimpse of the garden from down one of these walkways , but was stopped as I had been earlier as I ventured too far inside the room. The guides main purpose seemed to be stopping us plebs from straying into the residential quarters, though you could stay for lunch at 350rp minimum per person as Bryn and Mary had done. Still it was nice to admire the china, pottery and other things on display and get some idea of the wealth around. At 8pm we caught the train to Agra but once again the car attendant had to come to our aide in order for us to claim our seats from incumbents.
AGRA Wednesday 4 - Saturday 7 December
We got off the train in the early hours and asked the rickshaw driver to take us to the Raj (200rp), near the Taj Mahal in the so called Taj Ganj area. It was an excellent choice which was just opening and would have to wait until a room was vacated, so we took breakfast instead of wasting time. Because small hotels like ours are within 300m of the Taj Mahal, recently made a World Heritage Site, they may have to be pulled down which would be great shame for budget travelers, though one can sense the delight of upmarket hoteliers. By mid morning we had made our way there and observed one great positive, the forbidding of tradesmen, beggars and touts inside the site itself, only a few official government shops were allowed in the vicinity and even these were just outside the gates.
 |
| TAJ MAHAL COMPLEX |
 |
| LYING DOWN for BETTER REFLECTIONS |
 |
| TAJ MAHAL |
Nearby we made friends with the old proprietor of a telephone call centre. He had been in charge of the Taj Mahal for many years and clearly knew a great deal about it which he was more than willing to describe. Interesting conversations learning for instance that the seeming decoration of inlaid marble around the doors was in fact 11 chapters of the Koran He explained the meaning of some chapters which I can't recall - such is the advantage of recording such things at the time. We got up at 6am the first morning to see the sun rise on the Taj Mahal and we were by no means the only ones and the atmosphere was worth savouring, actually 7am would have been early enough to get the unique effect of sun glinting off the inlays, though we never succeeded in recording that sensation on film. As with all visits we took shot after shot hoping to capture the wonderful effect of this building. The nearest came when a girl tourist used Joan's camera and lay down at the end of the water to get the fullest reflection in the water. I had thought this was a gimmick but it certainly wasn't.
Up early this day to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise. It was very different as the light at sunrise and sunset has a big glinting effect on the appearance on the marble inlays.
 |
| TAJ MAHAL GLINTING |
FATEPUR SIKRI
We made two long trips by local bus, the first to Fatepur Sikri a fully built Moghul town which had to be abandoned after just 40 years for problems with salt in the water supply. As a result it is an outstanding example of a city, which is being well preserved as a tourist attraction where tradesmen had been recently banned.
 |
| FATEPUR SIKRI |
 |
| INTERIOR of FATEPUR SIKRI |
One trader we met had taken a room at the local GH but his trade was obviously going rapidly downhill, though his products were excellent. We purchased a couple of stone bowls again for Geoffrey, and looked at inlaid plates which we were offered at knock down prices (50% of Agra itself) which we refused. He came after us pleading for us to buy at the price I had offered during bargaining, so poor was trade he needed money. Hard hearted me refused, a decision I soon regretted for I became sure he was desperate for help. In the GH we met a girl who worked in Welfare at Port Talbot where I had worked for a shade over 30 years.
DEEG and the GOPAL BHAVAN
The second trip the very next day we made the far more difficult, more protracted, trip to Deeg. Which can be reached by a northerly of southerly route either of which involved two buses. In fact we made the full circuit in 2x5hrs, going via Mathura (Sharma's home town) and returning via Bharatpur. The time we spent there was well worth while, again it was a well kept monument, which judging by the presence of a wedding party enjoying the grounds attracts locals as well as tourists. Years later we both recall the huge ornamental blankets which were oscillated to cool the main room.
 |
| GOPAL BHAVAN |
 | |
|
LAST DAY IN AGRA
After shopping the final day we went back to the Taj Mahal for the third visit, planning to see it in evening sunlight. By chance it was a very special day, the anniversary of the death of Shah Gehan, who built it for his wife, so not only was entrance free but there was a religious band at the main door and on this one day one could go down into the basement to see the actual tombs. There are tombs on the ground floor but these are copies, but the originals are inlaid beautifully and in a totally different style to those daily view.
Next day Sunday 8 December we traveled to Delhi by train, a father with his daughter looking for a safe place for her to sit chose the seat near. She was going to Delhi for the very first day of her studies to become an engineer like her father. She too was interesting company although understandably a little wary of how her first day at university would go.
 |
| Joan with engineering student |
Shameful incident Agra College Agra
ReplyDeleteA girl who was suffering from chicken pox she dare to give exam on 20th May 2016. We all appreciate this, but knowing this you all feel shame that a teacher of Agra College, Agra refused her to give exam and told her if you give exam he will burn her exam copy. After insisting him a lot of time he allowed her to give an exam at outside of the classroom. The girl gave the exam at outside of the classroom, but she did not get even a single glass of water. What is going on Agra college Agra, where is there humanities. If that girl belongs to your sister or daughter does he do this.
A very shameful incide