AMRITSAR
There were seats but no lights on the train, a night sleeper to Amritsar, so for 90 minutes we were reassured by the presence of Raja. He had invited us to stay with aunt Rajdeep and uncle with whom he lived. It was her who told us Raja was an assumd name, he had in fact been named Rajan.
We were welcomed to 302 Green Avenue where Rubina lived with her mother, her brother Amrinder, nicknamed Monto was now living in Toronto and making a career as a journalist with the Toronto Star, her older sister Amreena Sehgal had married a Hindu in May and left to live with him, the union seemed to be failing. Their father Prithi Pal Singh was clearly a Sikh with the usual turban, but he and Rajdeep appeared to live quite separate lives, his bed was in the room which doubled as the kitchen and he was the cook. Raja and his older brother Gogi consider themselves loosely Sikh but have both shaved their hair, however Gogi's young son Sahib had a Top Knot.
2 November
Rajdeep who ran a prosperous dress making boutique was very worried by a dispute with the landlady of her small factory who wanted to sell immediately for 10 lakh (£20k), a lakh being a hundred thousand, far more common than a million in India. She set me to read her horoscope before deciding whether to accept since they hadn't sufficient money, though accepting 7-9 lakh as a fair price. After a day of worry they settled on the basis the rent would be increased from 1700 to 2000rp. This search for the Auspicious Day was a sign of the importance Indians pay to superstition.
Apart from a contented customer base in the are she imported Canada, to Edmonton via a niece and Toronto via Monto. I am ashamed we didn't investigate a market for her in Swansea, though our life took a sharp turn for the worse in 1997.
At
around 6pm we visited the boutique, a small dress making factory where
two embroidery workers were working with needles - shades of Nepal -
three machinists and the master cutter, the essential decoration was by
traditional block printing. Rajdeep and Rubina did the design. They
block printed the cotton in stages using subsidiary blocks to provide
two colour infills. Local customers would bring in their own material,
but they also made ready to wear garments. We were greatly impressed by
the variety of designs and materials and purchased four dresses for
Joan, Judy and Anne Marie plus an embroidered red dress for Joan's
forthcoming birthday.
In
the evening at 8pm Raja took us to took us to the Golden Temple for the
first time. It was fabulous with the huge cloister, outer buildings and
clock towers, the gilded temple itself was in a large expanse of holy
water. They canteens served 30,000 people a day and there was free
accommodation for Indians or foreigners, which we could have used.
Several Sikhs approached us, a common theme seemed to dissatisfaction with the corrupt political regime. Sikhs considered
themselves hardworking and honest. Inside the temple itself the
atmosphere was of great reverence and the proceedings with a resident
band of musicians playing quiet religious music was a great factor. So
was the splendour of the inlaid stone patterns and the gold.
We sat inside through the nightly closing
ceremony and stood in Nemaster pose for the final prayer. Apparently it
was the traditional evening prayer for all Sikhs. Then we watched as the
holy scriptures were removed from the temple and taken back across the
bridge for safe overnight storage in the library building. It was borne
on elaborate sedan chairs and there was much chanting for 20 mins whilst
it was consigned to the library once again.
We collected our shoes at 10.15 and Rajan took us to his mother's house in the centre where we were greeted by Gogi and his two daughters and his mother. They gave us a lovely meal curried beans, chanadal, paneer, curd with corn paste balls, and to finish rasqubla and a variety of nuts, almonds, walnut, pistachio and raisins. Joan with her white skin was clearly thought beautiful by both Gogi and his mother, I remembered the effect she had on one of Twatchai's relatives in Bangkok. We also met Rajan and Gogi's charming grandmother Schanti. Gogi pressed us to use his phone which must have been a novelty since it was rarely out of use in Green Avenue and they thought nothing of frequent 30 minute conversation with relatives abroad, which must have cost a fortune.
Gogi had worked in Sydney for three years
but returned homesick, though his English was not as good as Rajan or
Rubina for both were fluent. He now worked as a property developer,
buying land, building houses and selling them. He was currently building
a large one of 250 sq yards which will sell for around £80k. He took
Joan on his motorbike, she was most impressed, all bathrooms with
en-suite bathrooms, lovely arrangement with a central light column with
bedrooms overlooking the hall, servants quarters, two kitchens one
upstairs for a second family. The contrast of wealth and poverty in
India is dramatic.
Rajdeep and Rubina are pressing us to stay for Diwali, the biggest festival of the year in Amritsar and Bombay. After discussion we agreed to go with Rajdeep and Rajan to Haridwah (good gate) for several days and return to Amritsar for Diwali on the 10 November 1996, which coincided with Joan's 60th birthday. Raja bought the tickets and another at the same time for our onward journey to Bikaner on the 11 November.
On the wall in the street, opposite Rajdeep's house, was a huge poster of Brook Shields. Photographs of Indian film stars commonly decorate village bedrooms for Bombay is the centre of the biggest film studios in the world, films which are little known outside India. For two days we did little but explore the city starting with Lawrence Road a nearby considered to have upmarket shops but we saw little difference. We went into the Golden Temple in search of a bank, then explored the Hall bazaar area where we bought a big map of Rajastan in Book Lovers.
Whilst eating an ice cream at Crystal we noticed an advert for a cricket match between Punjab and Haryana and went in search of the ground. It was a one day match, interested but poorly attended. Like others we watched for free from the high mound separating the ground from a very large playing field where they were playing hockey. The Haryana opener reached 100 in spite of good fielding and bowling. We weren't alone on our stand Indians came and went but each new arrival came to shake our hands, rather like France a formality that makes you feel at home, we thought. Rajdeep often says there aren't many good Indians, they are very jealous of success and not to be trusted, we have found on occasions but many who are extremely friendly and trustworthy.
HARIDWAH, 5-9th November
Raja and Rajdeep arrived just in time to board, but Raja and Atul descended at the first stop to look for better berths, since you could not walk between carriages. A few stops later they came back to fetch us, we followed them somewhat nervously because there was no platform and we feared the train would leave without us. It was our first encounter with a second class sleeper, in a carriage designated S2. We had tickets for berths 65, 66 and 67, these entitled to the top bunk which remained permanently in position for which it is often preferred by backpackers because in the day time you can safely stow your luggage, the lower two in day time form the single 3 person bench seat bottom, at night the back rest is lifted to form the middle bunk, leaving the seat as the lower bunk. It was a comfortable enough night punctuated by uproar at each major stop as passengers got on and off.
In the evening and morning
there were frequent cries of chai and mumfli (peanuts) from sellers
walking up and down the train. We also bought things from station
sellers such as tea in throw away clay cups and Pakora sandwiches two
slices of bread coated in chana dal mixture and crispy fried into an
attractive gold colour. The range of snacks on sale is wide and once you
get used to eating from newspaper or a banana leaf they are very tasty.
On arrival at Haridwah we had breakfast before going down to the ghats of the Ganga (Ganges). Raja as promised went for a swim but I declined because there was no one to watch over my money belt. Several people were bathing in the fast flowing stream. It was a pleasant atmosphere with temples and people enjoying themselves. The river is divided into two by what amounts to a small island connected to the mainland at either end by a bridge, maybe the island was man made to increase the length of water front and to allow people to swim in the narrow section of water in between. At peak times many drown because the current is truly ferocious. A horse drawn carriage took us to the Ashram which was both good and cheap, 80rp for two double rooms one with three beds, Rajan and Rajdeep referred to it as the hotel.
At 6pm we went back to the ghats to take part in the boat
launching ceremonies, the boats are made from leaf and are full of
flowers with a flaming candle in the middle. They bobbed and twinkled
their way down river until overcome by the surf of the current. It would
have been totally pleasant but for the stream of men with receipt pads
looking for donations, other salesmen and beggars. The boats themselves
were sold in an orderly fashion typically for 5rp but another 2rp went
to the young girl selling glowing candles.
That first night we had an
excellent meal at a Jain restaurant near the ashram, rice and numerous
chapati of different types to eat with the dishes plus a plate of salad
tomatoes, cucumber, and onion with lemon, curd and even ice cream, 150rp
for us hungry five. The restaurant was packed the attraction being the
TV which was showing the final stages of the one day Titan Cup in which
India surprisingly beat South Africa who hitherto were unbeaten in this
India/South Africa/Australia tournament. There was a huge cheer as the
last South African wicket fell, Alin Kumble with 4-30, two at the start
and both the tail enders (Simcox and Robinson) who looked likely to
steal the game, he was made 'man of the match'.
The next day we took a taxi to Rishikesh for 60rp. After another excellent lunch 112rp for 5, we part walked, part taxied, back via numerous stalls all selling at reasonable prices. We discovered a quiet ghat away from Haridwah where we intended to go for a holy bathe the next day. A man from Dehli, seemingly well educated, dressed in a loin cloth said he regularly spent a week here sleeping out with a single blanket and enjoyed the process.
Radeep was to go back a day early, we now think it was to prepare for Diwali, We took the chair car lift to the temple, the ride was worth while but the temple was not that special and later. In the evening we went to visit a friend of Rajdeep, they were charming family and very welcoming but unable to speak much English. I remember to get there meant going down a steep one person wide staircase in a tunnel and cracking my head painfully on the concrete as I emerged.
Atul's English improved greatly during the trip and he made great strides with his accent. but Atul lost his newly given gold ring (10,000rp) and was clearly fearful of his reception by his parents. Otherwise he was a pleasant quick witted companion always joking and talking fast and loud with a chuckle - usually about girls, I don't remember seeing one he didn't think was sexy, but he accepted Rajan one year older had more experience.
Finding the correct carriage on the train back was an experience, it appears the sleepers are numbered S1, S2, S3 etc from the engine end, but which end was the engine and about that our helpers could not agree, anyway we got there just ahead of Rajan who had gone for some food. An Australian couple were pestered by Rajan and Atul, who never take NO for an answer, the girl escaped to the upper bunk but the 40ish joker of a man enjoyed the chit chat, and was even happier when woken up at their stop of Ambala, their change for Simla via Kalka.
10, 11 November DIWALI
Joan will never forget her 60th birthday in at 302 Green Avenue in Amritsar. 60 candles were placed around exterior walls of the roof patio, ready to be lit later on. The day started with a birthday cake for Joan. We had half a slice each, only us greedy Europeans can afford whole slices! I helped Rubina what we would consider Christmas decorations. In the afternoon proceedings started for Diwali, as boxes of sweets were taken to neighbours. Rubina's friend brought her a tin of Cadbury's chocolate tofffees, we went to her house and stayed perhaps 30 mins not a lot was said but greetings were exchanged and every one was offerred sweets, this time the pieces of truffle were cut into four. Back home we had a meal of Rajma and other dishes of which I was still ignorant of the name.
Nandi
the very pleasant but somewhat 'simple' man servant gave Rajdeep a
present of 40rp, she suggested some should go to us so we had 10rp each.
He would dearly liked to be able to communicate. He is part of the
family and has been with them for decades, they said from the outset he
could be trusted. By day he works in the paint shop, owned by Gogi's
older brother. Seeing us pass one day he rushed across the street to
greet us, took us back to the shop and offered us tea, we settled for
water. We sent him his own postcard from our next stop in Bikaner.
Several years later we learnt that he had been killed by a car as he was
crossing that shopping street.
Afterwards we went to a friend of Rajdeep by cycle rickshaw with Camy (the young girl who lived at Green Avenue because her mother was unable to look after her) but the driver did not know exactly where to go. Two cars in quick succession stopped to help - gratifying to know help was at hand but they couldn't help since none of us knew where we going either, luckily Rajdeep's husband came back and found us. In the house we ate more sweets, her husband offered me a plastic 'packet' of whisky but he seemed happy when I refused, not I think because of the cost but because the day was better without drink.
At around 10pm we went to the Golden Temple, it was well worth while for the whole place was lit by fairy lights and the air was thick with the noise and smoke of fireworks. Most impressive was the number of people who had come from the surrounding villages to spend the night under a blanket on the floor of the cloisters. They were toe to toe like packed like sardines in a tin all around this huge temple complex.
The day was finished on the balcony surrounded by 60 birthday candles watching the fireworks, catherine wheels spining on the floor, rockets powering into the sky and listened to the machine gun fire as the bangers were lit. The rich neighbours display ended at midnight with a huge flurry of rockets, but the rockets and machine gun fire went on throughout the night, indeep there were spasmodic outbusts the next evening as well. The amount spent on fireworks must be enormous. In Haridwah there were whole shops selling nothing else. One doidn't like to think of the resulting inuries which have resulted in such random shows being banned in Australia and Canada and at least curtailed in Britain.
At 3.15pm we went to the station to buy tickets at the booking office window, then paid extra on the platform to reserve seats and a berth at a table set up by the Train Examiner, this reservation added 50% to the cost of the ticket. From the moment we boarded we were worried about making the change at Rajpura in the middle of the night, even good vision identification of the stations in Hindi wasn't any help to us. But help was at hand a lady in a top bunk told us when there were just 2 stops to go, a crowd of men got on and started to play cards, a game based on equating numbers which I did b not know. They broke off immediately the train strted to slow down and told us the stop would be Rajpura.
Three hours were passed on the station in the mid of night drinking chai, and eating boiled eggs and a loaf of bread, and learning to decipher the Hindi script of the timetable. The train we had to catch started in Kalka, a convenient word to start with, with repeated letters. We had the most magnificent company on the platform, Rajastani sikhs dressed in full ceremonial costume complete with long swords. I didn't have the cheek to photograph, though in retrospect I expect they would have been delighted. They were an unforgettable sight, no doubt returning home following Diwali celebrations. I missed the first of great photo opportunities, for not wanting to invade privacy, the next one 15 years or so later was of two old men in Ottoman costume sitting in a cafe in Turkey. At the time I consoled myself with thoughts of similar outfits in Pushka.
A signal maintenance man in a large dark ochre shaul had promised to find me a seat but was not around when the train arrived, so I counted four sleepers but was unable to board as the door was locked. Noticing one of the carriages was AC we boarded the fifth. The attendant soon realised we were on the wrong carriage and so did my friendly maintenance man, they found the door blocked by people sleeping on the floor and after gentle tugging at ankles by the Ticket Examiner we got into our bunks and finished with a good nights sleep.
There were seats but no lights on the train, a night sleeper to Amritsar, so for 90 minutes we were reassured by the presence of Raja. He had invited us to stay with aunt Rajdeep and uncle with whom he lived. It was her who told us Raja was an assumd name, he had in fact been named Rajan.
We were welcomed to 302 Green Avenue where Rubina lived with her mother, her brother Amrinder, nicknamed Monto was now living in Toronto and making a career as a journalist with the Toronto Star, her older sister Amreena Sehgal had married a Hindu in May and left to live with him, the union seemed to be failing. Their father Prithi Pal Singh was clearly a Sikh with the usual turban, but he and Rajdeep appeared to live quite separate lives, his bed was in the room which doubled as the kitchen and he was the cook. Raja and his older brother Gogi consider themselves loosely Sikh but have both shaved their hair, however Gogi's young son Sahib had a Top Knot.
 |
| Rajdeep, Prithvi and Rubina in kitchen with offering for Diwali |
Rajdeep who ran a prosperous dress making boutique was very worried by a dispute with the landlady of her small factory who wanted to sell immediately for 10 lakh (£20k), a lakh being a hundred thousand, far more common than a million in India. She set me to read her horoscope before deciding whether to accept since they hadn't sufficient money, though accepting 7-9 lakh as a fair price. After a day of worry they settled on the basis the rent would be increased from 1700 to 2000rp. This search for the Auspicious Day was a sign of the importance Indians pay to superstition.
Apart from a contented customer base in the are she imported Canada, to Edmonton via a niece and Toronto via Monto. I am ashamed we didn't investigate a market for her in Swansea, though our life took a sharp turn for the worse in 1997.
 |
| BLOCK PRINTS at RAJDEEP'S BOUTIQUE |
 |
| MACHINISTS at RAJDEEP'S BOUTIQUE |
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| RAJDEEP at RISHIKESH |
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| Add Alice and Rachel twirl in their dresses at Christmas |
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| Judy and Anne-Marie in Rajdeep's dresses |
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| Joan in Rajdeep's dress for her 60th birthday |
 |
| Golden Temple Complex |
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| Bridge to Golden Temple |
We collected our shoes at 10.15 and Rajan took us to his mother's house in the centre where we were greeted by Gogi and his two daughters and his mother. They gave us a lovely meal curried beans, chanadal, paneer, curd with corn paste balls, and to finish rasqubla and a variety of nuts, almonds, walnut, pistachio and raisins. Joan with her white skin was clearly thought beautiful by both Gogi and his mother, I remembered the effect she had on one of Twatchai's relatives in Bangkok. We also met Rajan and Gogi's charming grandmother Schanti. Gogi pressed us to use his phone which must have been a novelty since it was rarely out of use in Green Avenue and they thought nothing of frequent 30 minute conversation with relatives abroad, which must have cost a fortune.
 |
| WIFE, BRIAN, JOAN, GOGI, SHANTI |
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| GOGI'S SON with TOP KNOT |
Rajdeep and Rubina are pressing us to stay for Diwali, the biggest festival of the year in Amritsar and Bombay. After discussion we agreed to go with Rajdeep and Rajan to Haridwah (good gate) for several days and return to Amritsar for Diwali on the 10 November 1996, which coincided with Joan's 60th birthday. Raja bought the tickets and another at the same time for our onward journey to Bikaner on the 11 November.
On the wall in the street, opposite Rajdeep's house, was a huge poster of Brook Shields. Photographs of Indian film stars commonly decorate village bedrooms for Bombay is the centre of the biggest film studios in the world, films which are little known outside India. For two days we did little but explore the city starting with Lawrence Road a nearby considered to have upmarket shops but we saw little difference. We went into the Golden Temple in search of a bank, then explored the Hall bazaar area where we bought a big map of Rajastan in Book Lovers.
Whilst eating an ice cream at Crystal we noticed an advert for a cricket match between Punjab and Haryana and went in search of the ground. It was a one day match, interested but poorly attended. Like others we watched for free from the high mound separating the ground from a very large playing field where they were playing hockey. The Haryana opener reached 100 in spite of good fielding and bowling. We weren't alone on our stand Indians came and went but each new arrival came to shake our hands, rather like France a formality that makes you feel at home, we thought. Rajdeep often says there aren't many good Indians, they are very jealous of success and not to be trusted, we have found on occasions but many who are extremely friendly and trustworthy.
HARIDWAH, 5-9th November
Raja and Rajdeep arrived just in time to board, but Raja and Atul descended at the first stop to look for better berths, since you could not walk between carriages. A few stops later they came back to fetch us, we followed them somewhat nervously because there was no platform and we feared the train would leave without us. It was our first encounter with a second class sleeper, in a carriage designated S2. We had tickets for berths 65, 66 and 67, these entitled to the top bunk which remained permanently in position for which it is often preferred by backpackers because in the day time you can safely stow your luggage, the lower two in day time form the single 3 person bench seat bottom, at night the back rest is lifted to form the middle bunk, leaving the seat as the lower bunk. It was a comfortable enough night punctuated by uproar at each major stop as passengers got on and off.
 |
| STOP for REFRESHMENT on way to HARIDWAR |
On arrival at Haridwah we had breakfast before going down to the ghats of the Ganga (Ganges). Raja as promised went for a swim but I declined because there was no one to watch over my money belt. Several people were bathing in the fast flowing stream. It was a pleasant atmosphere with temples and people enjoying themselves. The river is divided into two by what amounts to a small island connected to the mainland at either end by a bridge, maybe the island was man made to increase the length of water front and to allow people to swim in the narrow section of water in between. At peak times many drown because the current is truly ferocious. A horse drawn carriage took us to the Ashram which was both good and cheap, 80rp for two double rooms one with three beds, Rajan and Rajdeep referred to it as the hotel.
 |
| HARIDWAR |
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| Rajdeep and Joan at Our Ashram in Haridwar |
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| THE GATS at HARIDWAR |
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| JOAN, RAJDEEP, RAJAN and ATUL LAUNCH BOAT |
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| BRIAN and JOAN LAUNCH THEIR'S |
The next day we took a taxi to Rishikesh for 60rp. After another excellent lunch 112rp for 5, we part walked, part taxied, back via numerous stalls all selling at reasonable prices. We discovered a quiet ghat away from Haridwah where we intended to go for a holy bathe the next day. A man from Dehli, seemingly well educated, dressed in a loin cloth said he regularly spent a week here sleeping out with a single blanket and enjoyed the process.
 |
| ATUL, RAJAN, JOAN and RAJDEEP at RISHIKESH |
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| RAJDEEP and JOAN at RISHIKESH |
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| GIRL SELLING BREAD on PAVEMENT at RISHIKESH |
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| Poor lady sitting on street at Rishikesh sewing, looking for business? |
Radeep was to go back a day early, we now think it was to prepare for Diwali, We took the chair car lift to the temple, the ride was worth while but the temple was not that special and later. In the evening we went to visit a friend of Rajdeep, they were charming family and very welcoming but unable to speak much English. I remember to get there meant going down a steep one person wide staircase in a tunnel and cracking my head painfully on the concrete as I emerged.
Atul's English improved greatly during the trip and he made great strides with his accent. but Atul lost his newly given gold ring (10,000rp) and was clearly fearful of his reception by his parents. Otherwise he was a pleasant quick witted companion always joking and talking fast and loud with a chuckle - usually about girls, I don't remember seeing one he didn't think was sexy, but he accepted Rajan one year older had more experience.
Finding the correct carriage on the train back was an experience, it appears the sleepers are numbered S1, S2, S3 etc from the engine end, but which end was the engine and about that our helpers could not agree, anyway we got there just ahead of Rajan who had gone for some food. An Australian couple were pestered by Rajan and Atul, who never take NO for an answer, the girl escaped to the upper bunk but the 40ish joker of a man enjoyed the chit chat, and was even happier when woken up at their stop of Ambala, their change for Simla via Kalka.
10, 11 November DIWALI
Joan will never forget her 60th birthday in at 302 Green Avenue in Amritsar. 60 candles were placed around exterior walls of the roof patio, ready to be lit later on. The day started with a birthday cake for Joan. We had half a slice each, only us greedy Europeans can afford whole slices! I helped Rubina what we would consider Christmas decorations. In the afternoon proceedings started for Diwali, as boxes of sweets were taken to neighbours. Rubina's friend brought her a tin of Cadbury's chocolate tofffees, we went to her house and stayed perhaps 30 mins not a lot was said but greetings were exchanged and every one was offerred sweets, this time the pieces of truffle were cut into four. Back home we had a meal of Rajma and other dishes of which I was still ignorant of the name.
 |
| JOAN, SIXTY TODAY, IS FED BIRTHDAY CAKE |
 | |
| CAMY, JOAN, RUBINA, RAJDEEP, ATUL, RAJAN, RRITHVI |
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| KAMI, JOAN, RAJAN, RUBINA, RAJDEEP |
Afterwards we went to a friend of Rajdeep by cycle rickshaw with Camy (the young girl who lived at Green Avenue because her mother was unable to look after her) but the driver did not know exactly where to go. Two cars in quick succession stopped to help - gratifying to know help was at hand but they couldn't help since none of us knew where we going either, luckily Rajdeep's husband came back and found us. In the house we ate more sweets, her husband offered me a plastic 'packet' of whisky but he seemed happy when I refused, not I think because of the cost but because the day was better without drink.
At around 10pm we went to the Golden Temple, it was well worth while for the whole place was lit by fairy lights and the air was thick with the noise and smoke of fireworks. Most impressive was the number of people who had come from the surrounding villages to spend the night under a blanket on the floor of the cloisters. They were toe to toe like packed like sardines in a tin all around this huge temple complex.
The day was finished on the balcony surrounded by 60 birthday candles watching the fireworks, catherine wheels spining on the floor, rockets powering into the sky and listened to the machine gun fire as the bangers were lit. The rich neighbours display ended at midnight with a huge flurry of rockets, but the rockets and machine gun fire went on throughout the night, indeep there were spasmodic outbusts the next evening as well. The amount spent on fireworks must be enormous. In Haridwah there were whole shops selling nothing else. One doidn't like to think of the resulting inuries which have resulted in such random shows being banned in Australia and Canada and at least curtailed in Britain.
At 3.15pm we went to the station to buy tickets at the booking office window, then paid extra on the platform to reserve seats and a berth at a table set up by the Train Examiner, this reservation added 50% to the cost of the ticket. From the moment we boarded we were worried about making the change at Rajpura in the middle of the night, even good vision identification of the stations in Hindi wasn't any help to us. But help was at hand a lady in a top bunk told us when there were just 2 stops to go, a crowd of men got on and started to play cards, a game based on equating numbers which I did b not know. They broke off immediately the train strted to slow down and told us the stop would be Rajpura.
Three hours were passed on the station in the mid of night drinking chai, and eating boiled eggs and a loaf of bread, and learning to decipher the Hindi script of the timetable. The train we had to catch started in Kalka, a convenient word to start with, with repeated letters. We had the most magnificent company on the platform, Rajastani sikhs dressed in full ceremonial costume complete with long swords. I didn't have the cheek to photograph, though in retrospect I expect they would have been delighted. They were an unforgettable sight, no doubt returning home following Diwali celebrations. I missed the first of great photo opportunities, for not wanting to invade privacy, the next one 15 years or so later was of two old men in Ottoman costume sitting in a cafe in Turkey. At the time I consoled myself with thoughts of similar outfits in Pushka.
A signal maintenance man in a large dark ochre shaul had promised to find me a seat but was not around when the train arrived, so I counted four sleepers but was unable to board as the door was locked. Noticing one of the carriages was AC we boarded the fifth. The attendant soon realised we were on the wrong carriage and so did my friendly maintenance man, they found the door blocked by people sleeping on the floor and after gentle tugging at ankles by the Ticket Examiner we got into our bunks and finished with a good nights sleep.
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